DAY 13 - Jeddah City Tour

Today was our last day of touring, it has gone so fast.

The first stop was the fish market, sounded like a strange place but it was interesting (not smelly). There was no cod or haddock, but many strange, colourful, large fish plus octopus, shrimp and calamari. We saw two fish jump out of a tray onto the floor and jump and wriggle - now that is fresh!

Next stop was Old Town (a UNESCO site). Lots of old buildings here, being renovated, it’s an awesome place. It will be a real treasure when they are done. We popped into a shop selling all sorts of sweets and chocolates- sample anything you like for free - buy or don’t buy - my kind of place. 

We just happened to bump into The Culture Minister while there, and our guide Khalid knew him so there were hugs, kisses and an invitation to view the bottom floor of an old house that wasn’t open yet (we are so lucky to have him, he seems to know so many people and makes things happen). We saw the stairs to the second floor, they were very shallow, apparently camels loaded with goods used to go up them and were unloaded upstairs.

After that we went into an old building that housed a coffee shop, for a little break.

We then went to The House of Islamic Arts, housed on an upper floor of a shopping mall. After that it was a group lunch in a Turkish restaurant (our last meal together). We were then dropped off at the hotel for a couple of hours before meeting at 5 pm to go to Al-Taybat International City Museum of Science and Information. It was another private collector’s museum that had 300,000+ pieces, it was truly overwhelming. We spent about 1.5 hours there before returning to the hotel around 8:30 pm. Another long day. We can sleep in tomorrow as the tour is over and everyone is either going home, or moving on to their next destination. We said our goodbyes to our driver, Khalid (local guide for the whole tour) and Rob (our Canadian tour manager).

DAY 12 - Taif to Jeddah

We did our Taif sightseeing this morning. We saw the Shubra Palace (from outside), it was built in 1905 and is being converted into a museum.

We had a lovely walk around the souk, the vendors were very helpful showing us their wares. It is a big area for honey and they gave us samples to try. Also, rose water and rose oil is made here. We also saw frankincense, which looks like a piece of pink rock, they break small pieces off and burn it, it gives a nice aroma (a bit like incense).

We then went to a really good private collector’s museum, everything from coffee pots, daggers, rifles and a few cars.

After Taif we drove on the non-Muslim road to skirt the holy city of Mecca until we reach Jeddah. We stopped and took a very quick photo of the sign.

Jeddah is the principal gateway to Mecca, and is the commercial capital. It has been a port for Muslim pilgrims making the hajj to Mecca since at least 647 AD.

We arrived at our hotel (The Crowne Plaza) about 3:15 and had some free time before we met for dinner at 7 pm. We decided to go for a walk along the Corniche (promenade, Red Sea coast). It seems warmer and for the first time, humid here. We went to a local fish restaurant and stopped at Baskin Robbins for ice cream on the way back.

DAY 11 - Al Ula to Medina to Taif

Our longest travelling day today - I’m told 9-10 hours. 

We left our lovely resort hotel at 7:45, I was still humbled by the spectacular location. Definitely a 5 star rating.

Our first stop was at Elephant Rock, just out of town. It was closed but our driver went in the back way so we could get close enough to see it. He drove the bus off road, carefully, through packed and soft sand, glad he knows what he’s doing.

After about three hours we stopped in the middle of the desert at an old railway station. I suspect it was more for taking on water, not passengers, to keep the steam engines going. There were a few old train engines in very bad shape, left over from the early 1900’s. It was good to stretch our legs.

We drove through the city of Medina about 2pm, we couldn’t stop, as we (non-Muslim) shouldn’t really have been there. We circled through town about four times trying to get as close to the mosque as we could, and we only managed to pull over for a few minutes. Photography was difficult due to fences, cranes, other vehicles, and curtains, heads and arms on the bus 🙁. The mosque was large, with numerous minarets, a green dome and covered areas outside. Dozens of hotels in this area, for the many visitors, four and five deep for blocks and blocks. People come here to visit the mosque and there are staggered times for men and women to visit. Huge amount of construction going on. The city has about 1.5 million population.

We stopped again about 3pm for gas and snack purchases, can’t believe how much some people eat!

Stopped about 5:30 for sunset pictures, desert and mountains again 😀

Two more hours to go. Apparently a roof top restaurant at the hotel for dinner - hope I’m hungry by then.

(Pics 1/2 Shaden Resort hotel, last 2 nights. Pics 3/4 Elephant Rock. Pic 5 railway. Pic 6 Medina, tiny glimpse of mosque at back.)

DAY 10 - Touring Al Ula

We had a busy day touring the World Heritage site. The Nabatean’s built here on an ancient trade route and there are many buildings similar to what we’ve (previously) seen at the Nabatean capital of Petra, Jordan. There are over 300 tombs cut into the rock faces, many dated to between 2nd century BC and 2nd century AD. The sites are currently being excavated and the information is gradually being updated. It is/was built near an oasis (underground spring) so there are areas with thousands of palm trees. We toured the sites with the Royal Commission for Al Ula guides as they limit access.

After we finished there we wandered around Old Town, which has been newly restored with shops and cafes. 

DAY 9 - Tabuk to Al Ula

Today we travel south, about 300 km. It started well but it appears we are having trouble with the transmission on the bus. The decision was made yesterday to have a new bus meet us at Al Ula later today. As luck would have it, when we arrive (about lunchtime) we transfer to 4 x 4’s for our sightseeing so we shouldn’t be held up. The down part is no stops for toilets etc. along the way, the bus is running - let’s keep it that way or we may have to find some camels! We have an emergency toilet on the bus, plus wifi, the wifi is better than some hotels so I’m able to tweak my previous blog entries.

OK, so we made it to our resort, they’d called ahead and said have the gate open, we can’t stop/start the bus. We arrived to barricades/security and the driver and guide were honking the horn and waving their arms around. The guy at the barricade was very slow to react and we almost plowed him down 🤣

We checked into our rooms, had some lunch, and set out for the afternoon. We explored more of the area which had lots of interesting rock formations and a few petroglyphs. An old railway station from the early 1900’s (no longer used), a small farm growing dates, citrus fruits, alfalfa, and keeping hens, ducks, sheep, goats, camels. We went to the top of Harrat Viewpoint (lots of hairpin bends) to take in the the sunset and views of the town. Our hotel is in a spectacular location, nestled amongst the walls of rock, with all the one storey rooms scattered around. I think we’ll sleep really well tonight. There is a bird watching tour available in the morning at 4:30 (think I will pass). We are here two nights.

DAY 8 - Wadi Al-Disah excursion

Today we set off in Toyota 4 x 4 vehicles to Wadi Al-Disah, a 15 kilometre long canyon situated about 80 km south of Tabuk. It is a natural wonder and one of the must see places in Saudi Arabia. Massive rocky cliffs beautifully coloured on each side, with palm trees, oleander, and grasses growing throughout. One section had a natural spring that provides a water stream and was about 10 inches deep in spots. We drove through part of it and then walked about 4 km before all getting together for a picnic lunch. We then drove through the flooded part and had another walk. We came across a few areas with camels (and a few babies). We returned to Tabuk for quick showers before heading to a Jordanian restaurant for dinner.

DAY 7 - Sakaka to Tabuk

Today was one of the long drive days, it is also Friday and most sites will be shut, (their religious day and spending time with family). I believe we had to drive about 460 km. We stopped early on and bought provisions from the supermarket for our lunches. The people are very friendly (especially young women) and I had one ask me if I needed any help (no she didn’t work there 😀).

We watched the scenery change as we went along. We found toilets at gas stations and managed to get there with no mishaps. We made a stop as we passed a race track where camels were being exercised. We arrived in Tabuk and visited the stone fort (yes another one) and then took a walk in the Souk - basically a pedestrian precinct with loads of shops. Shopkeepers were shouting hello and we went in one place where a guy was sewing panels of fabric together to make wall coverings, he was happy to explain his work. People on the street were curious and some were taking our photos so we stopped and said hello. We suggested having photos together, some were ok with it but a few were too shy. We make sure to tell them we’re from Canada and that Saudia Arabia is beautiful - they are happy to hear that. We heard the call to prayers and stores started closing as the sun was going down. What an atmosphere.

Our hotel is lovely, we’re here two nights. We went out for dinner to a local restaurant.

DAY 6 - Sakaka area touring

 Two nights here so no need to pack this morning. Our first stop was the Qasr Zabal fortress, which as usual is on the top of a hill overlooking the village/town. There seem to have been forts everywhere here, keeping an eye out for strangers up to no good. They usually look newish because the outer layer is often redone. Not far from here was an old Nabatean well, which strangely was on higher ground also. Our third stop was to see the Al Rajajeel Standing Stones, which were in a large area of worship. Fourth stop was Qasr Marid, a walled fortress (not on a hill), complete with mosque and town. We managed to get in to have a little look, as it was closed - the Italians are there right now excavating the site. We had lunch at a nice restaurant with a terrace overlooking the site. The country seems to be working very hard to get ready for tourists, super roads, sidewalks etc. but lots of museums and sites are often closed (sometimes because the guy with the key didn’t show up yet). We also visited a man made lake (constantly being topped up with spring water), that was quiet but I’m sure was very busy on the weekends. You can rent jet skis here.

We managed to have a treat this afternoon, apparently our tour manager and our local guide, had been emailing numerous times through the morning with the Ministry of the Interior and managed to get us access to Camel Rock. Apparently this was an extremely rare privilege and very few tourists in the world have ever been allowed in. It is a parcel of land with rock carvings of life sized camels (from about 7,000 years ago). They are trying to discover more details about the place, and are protecting it, our bus had to drive carefully overland to get nearer to it, following a ministry vehicle.

We are going out to a restaurant for tonight’s dinner - an Italian Indian fusion place, so we’re looking forward to that.

DAY 5 - Hail to Jubba to Sakaka

Hail was on the old (before railroad) camel caravan route from Iraq. Today it’s a modern city. We first went to a small museum in a local guy’s house. He had rooms full of antiques and collectibles and he just invited us all in to wander around. A couple of his friends/neighbors were helping him out. Next we went to the A’Arif Fort overlooking the city. A bit of a climb up to it but some good city views. There was a group of school girls sitting outside the entrance and they were all very excited to see us and loved having their photos taken, their teachers said they were between 6-10 years old. It is a little strange starting a conversation with the ladies, peering out at us through the slit, but they seem to be quite happy to chat and their English is good. They have even chatted when Ian asked a question 😀.

We continued our drive through the Nafud Desert, as the landscape changed from small sandstone hills to sand dunes. We saw a few groups of camels, blonde, brown and black versions. Our next stop was in Jubbah, the UNESCO site Jabal Umm Sanman, where we went to see Petroglyphs (possibly up to 10,000 years old). We then went for lunch at a small date farm, sampled several types of fresh dates, had a cardamom coffee, and watched two camels (walking to and fro) drawing water from a well to water the date palms. They were extremely well behaved. Then, back on the bus for three hours to tonight’s hotel at Sakaka. The time on the bus was used to check photos and write my blog, ready to upload later. Maybe I won’t be up until midnight tonight 🤣. A good day.